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Country
churches in Sardinia
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Our
Lady of Bubalis
Called
Nostra Segnora de Mesu Mundu
Siligo (Sassari)
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The
architect Frank Amedeo Pittui narrates and Laurence Gambella
translates into English:
"The archaeological complex of "Mesu Mundu" rises
up in an alluvial valley surrounded by a series of high basalt
plains, a short distance away from the banks of the River Mannu,
about km 187 on the SS131 road. In the area, there are numerous
springs, among these the so-called "S'abba Uddi" (also
termed "Abba de Bagnos") which flows at the constant
temperature of 18º C. The presence of the various hot springs
has encouraged people to settle in the area from ancient times.
For example, the remains of Roman settlements from C3rd AD are
to be found near the Roman road "a Turre-Karalis" (from
Porto Torres to Cagliari), as well as the more ancient witness
of the nuraghe Culzu located on the banks of the River Ruzzu.
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Amid
the remains of Roman buildings there emerges a small Byzantine
temple called St Mary of Bubalis, more commonly known as Our Lady
of Mesu Mundu. (...)
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Photo:
Ketty Grasso©2002
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Since no documentation exists, the date of the church's construction
is uncertain. However, the rediscovery of several tombs, positioned
against the walls of the building, supply a terminus ante quem:
it must be from C7th or earlier. (...)
An architectural shell remains from the original construction,
made up of:
a central body;
a domed rotunda with two large windows with lowered arch open
towards the top;
two unequal annexes both with apses, oriented to the west ("A")
and to the south ("B"). The first has a barrel vault,
the second a wide arched window with semi-dome covering.
On the outside the remains of the northern annexe are visible,
consisting in a fragment of wall next to, though no longer fixed
to, the rotunda wall. On the east side, the stones are in complete
disorder and, consequently, what does remain of the wall cannot
be accounted for with great certainty.
At present there are no traces of the original entrance, although
it was almost certainly different from the current one, which
is notable on the inside for the basalt block, placed there by
the Benedictines in CXIth, and on the outside for its brick platband
(restoration in 1934).
It is interesting to consider Roberto Caprara's explanation of
this: the entrance would have been to the east, in place of the
current apse, since the presence of a semicircular construction
tallies with there being a rectangular narthex with an apse on
both sides. On the outside, immediately to the south of the "C"
apse, the foundations of a small niche can be seen, which might
ulteriorly confirm the existence of a narthex.
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Maetzke,
then, speaks of an "old atrium" to the north, but does
not supply further evidence to support his hypothesis. In any
case, it was later confounded by Alessandro Teatini.
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Photo:
Ketty Grasso©2002
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Inside
the building, before the latest restoration initiative, the kicking
away of the layers of earth on the surface uncovered part of the
foundations of the circular hall and as well as other structures,
in particular the portion of a rectilinear wall in opus caementicium,
made with basalt blocks, and the ruins of the Byzantine water
system. This s consisted in a small channel which wound its course
round both parts 'A' and 'B' and the hall. Towards the centre
the channel is interrupted by a sectioned quadrangular well with
a deep hole in the middle, which probably contained the hinge
of a small revolving door to regulate the flow of water.
The
building recalls Roman style, for its method of construction.
The builders built the dome with a concrete mix, positioning it
on a circular wall, therefore avoiding the need for a domed vault
erected on a quadrangular base.
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Typical
of the Byzantine culture, however, was the wall built in opus
listatum, made with small blocks of local stone (basalt) and baked
bricks, linked with a thin layer of lime and silicic sand.
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Part
of the structures, as already mentioned, were constructed on existing
remains, such as the small, windowed "B" apse built
on a stretch of wall in opus testaceum. This was probably an inn
or bathhouse while it was a Roman structure, as one can see vaguely
on the outside. (...)
In
explaining the etymology of the name "Mesumundu", Paulis
divides the word in two parts: "Inside it - he observes-
we recognise a main part - mesu 'di mezzo', central, what is in
the middle' [presumably referring to the presence in the centre
of the church of a well in quadrangular form, of uncertain date]
and a "mundu" part - mundu [which] is nothing other
than memory, handed down to our day by oral tradition and by the
waters which once ran where the church was built [...]. This obviously
refers to the adjective MUNDUS, "pure, clean, without stain"
which especially in Christian circles could be used to designate
springs, cisterns, wells [...]. Thus, the church of Mesumundu
was built above the remains of a Roman building in which already
previously, Christian ideology had encroached, because of the
sacrality connected to the healing waters affluent there. The
dedication of the temple [...] to the Virgin Mary was probably
not, therefore, by chance, since in Byzantine Sardinia [...] the
worship of the Mother of God was associated with the miraculous
powers of holy water through the rite of the agiasma, a sacred
pool dedicated to her. Here the sick bathed hopeful of obtaining
a cure».
In
any case, the discovery, within the monument, of the Roman age
conduit confirms unequivocably the existence of the thermal building,
but the possibility that this was already used in the water cult
is not, however, to be excluded. (...)
To
read the complete italian text of Arch. F.A. Pittui click
here 
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